Download Poinsettias Varieties shown on “Grow It Green”: Orion Red

Poinsettias
Varieties shown on “Grow It Green”: Orion Red (an early variety, ready
for sale by Thanksgiving), Prestige (available in early December, leaves
are a dark red contrasting nicely with red bracts), Avante Garde (pink with
variegated leaves), Cortez Burgundy (bracts are a dark purple)
Location and Temperature
The poinsettia thrives on bright, sunny natural daylight; at least six hours daily is
recommended. Placement near a sunny window is ideal. To prolong the bright red of
the bracts, temperatures ideally should not exceed 70° F during the day, or fall below
65° F at night. Be sure to avoid placing the plants near drafts, fluctuating air currents,
excess heat and dry air from appliances, fireplaces or ventilating ducts. Chilling injury
will occur if poinsettias are exposed to temperatures below 50° F. Frost will kill them.
Water and Fertilizer
Poinsettias do best with a moist soil condition, not too wet and not too dry. Water the
poinsettia thoroughly when the soil surface feels dry to a light touch. The best indication
of a thorough watering is when the water begins to seep through the drain holes at the
bottom of the inner pot. Water just enough so the water barely begins to seep through
these holes. Be sure to discard any excess water, as poinsettias left sitting in water may
suffer from permanent root-rot damage.
It is not necessary to fertilize your poinsettias when they are in bloom during the holiday
season. However, after 6-8 weeks, a balanced, all-purpose household plant fertilizer
mixed ½-strength will help maintain the rich, green foliage color and promote new
growth. Repeat once more in another 6-8 weeks.
After the Holidays
Even if you don't have a gardener's green thumb, you may continue to enjoy the beauty
of your poinsettia throughout the year as an attractive green foliage plant. At the end of
April or early May, when the bracts age and begin to turn a muddy green, cut the plant
back to about 8 inches. The amount you cut from the top will depend on the shape of
the plant. Some plants will need to have more cut than others to achieve a full, rounded
canopy. After you cut the plant back, it will probably look rather stark, with bare
branches and bluntly cut woody stems. This is not the plant's most attractive state, but
by the end of May you will see vigorous new growth as the plant develops more lush
green foliage. Keep the plants near a sunny window.
You may place your plants outdoors where they can bask in the warmth of summer
when the outside night temperatures are warmer. Continue to water the plants regularly
during the growing period. Fertilize every 3 to 4 weeks throughout the spring, summer
and fall months with a well-balanced fertilizer mixed ½-strength.
Around June 15th you may wish to transplant your poinsettias into larger pots, about 2"
to 4" bigger than the original inner pot. Use a soil mix that incorporates a considerable
amount of organic matter such as peat moss. You may also try planting them into a
well-prepared garden bed rich in organic matter and with good drainage. Your
poinsettias will do best in a protected area, preferably along a south garden wall.
Immediately after transplanting, be sure to water thoroughly.
Re-flowering
The poinsettia is a photoperiod plant, which means it begins to set buds and produce
flowers as the winter nights become longer. The plants will naturally come into full
bloom during November or December depending upon the flowering response time of
the particular variety. This can be tricky to do outside of a controlled greenhouse
environment, because any stray artificial light such as that from a street light, pool light
or household lamp could delay or halt the re-flowering of the plants.
Starting October 1, the plants must be kept in complete darkness for 14 continuous
hours each night. This can be accomplished by moving the plants to a dark room or
placing a large box over them. During this period, the plants require 6 to 8 hours of
bright sunlight and night temperatures between 60° and 70° F. If the temperature is too
high or too low, the setting of the flower buds may be delayed or halted. The blooming
process may also be delayed or disrupted by any stray light that may shine near the
plants during the critical darkness period. This regimen must continue for approximately
8 to 10 weeks in order for the plants to develop a colorful display of blooms for the
holiday season. Obviously, the re-flowering process takes more than a little vigilance,
perseverance and patience to be successful.
Poinsettias Are Not Poisonous
Since around 1919, an unsubstantiated tale has circulated concerning the alleged
poisonous nature of poinsettias. To alleviate the public's fear, the Society of American
Florists and Ohio State University conducted a scientific investigation into the safety of
the poinsettia plant. The Ohio State University research on the poinsettia plant
effectively disproved the charge that the poinsettia is harmful to human and animal
health. Of course, the poinsettia, like all ornamental plants, is not intended for human
and animal consumption.
Information provided by Paul Ecke Ranch, Poinsettia Producers
The University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension programs and policies are consistent with
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Dept. of Agriculture, and New Hampshire counties cooperating.