Download USING 2-PACK POLYURETHANE PAINT

USING 2-PACK POLYURETHANE PAINT
Frank Stevens
MPH 292
Page 12
Some time ago, J. Hardman mentioned a polyurethane paint, made by International Paints Limited. I have been using some
of this lately, and in my opinion, if a little care is taken with it, a finish as good as the original Vincent finish is easily
obtainable. At first, the price may seem a bit expensive, as it is £1.18p. per pint, and I suppose by now V.A.T. will have
been added to this. The self etch primer costs 50p. per pint and the special brush cleaner/ thinners costs 43p. per tin, plus
V.A.T. for both. Unlike ordinary paint, this paint, which is type 708, is supplied in two components, the pigment and the
hardener. These are mixed together in a ratio of 4 parts pigment to 1 of hardener. They must be thoroughly mixed and left to
stand for 10 minutes. During this time, any air trapped in the mix will bubble out. If this is not done, the air bubbles will
tend to come out when the paint has been applied, and as the paint hardens fairly fast, the bubbles finish up on the surface.
When applying this paint, don't try and spread it too thinly, nor try to get a wet finish, free from brush marks. As this paint is
a chemical, it is not air-hardening, and the entire thickness of the coat hardens at the same rate, so when the outside is dry,
so is the inside. This gives the paint what must be a unique capability for "build-up". Provided the whole surface being
painted is wet with paint, it will tend to fill any pit marks, the paint tending to flow according to the surface to which it is
applied, while the outer surface tries to remain flat. So, after a couple of coats, you get a perfectly smooth outer surface, and
it does dry without brush marks. Amazing, but true!
Another point about this paint is the coverage. The makers say that 500-ml. (1/2-litre) will cover 7-8 square yards, and I
quite believe them! The list or parts I have painted so far is quite extensive, all have been given 3 or 4 coats and the tin is
still half full. The only snag, if you can call it one, is that for our type of use, you must only mix small amounts at any one
time. Make up a full pint and it would take an entire section painting about three bikes each, to use it all before it hardened
off. Also, once mixed, it has to be used and cannot be stored, for if it is left, it will just harden right through. One other point
is that although the paint hardens on a surface quickly, it should be left, when finished, for about 7 days for the paint to cure.
To quote the book of words supplied with the paint - "Until it is cured, it should not be subjected to continuous immersion
(in water) nor should it be brought into contact with fuels, alcohols, acids, or alkalis". So when it has cured, that surface is
HARD.
The brushes used must be washed out immediately afterwards in the special brush cleaner, for once they go hard you can't
ever soften them up again. Unlike most paints, this paint has little or no smell, and can be used in the house without causing
screams of protest from the "little woman", so find a nice dust-free room, and have a go. Any good boat yard or chandlers
should be able to supply it, but if you have difficulty in getting some, try writing to the makers and asking for the name of
your nearest supplier. They also do some very good little books on using this paint on different materials, including on
painting Fibreglass (Series "D" owners take note). The address is - International Yacht paints, 24-30 Canute Road,
Southampton, Hants. As an experiment, I had a rear torque arm stoved by a good firm and another was hand-painted using
this paint. Trouble is, I can't tell which is which! So, if you are thinking of having the bike re-stoved, lash out a couple of
pounds and do it yourself. You can only lose £2.00, but if you make a mess-up with this paint, well . . . words fail me, as it's
that easy to use.