Download LIST OF TOPICS FOR YOUR KITTEN`S THIRD VISIT

LIST OF TOPICS FOR
YOUR KITTEN’S THIRD VISIT
Age Comparison Chart
Boarding Facilities: How to Choose One for Your Cat
Fact Sheet: Declaw
Fact Sheet: Neuter
Fact Sheet: Feline Ovariohysterectomy (Spay) Surgery
Feline Neuter: What to Expect on Surgery Day
Feline Ovariohysterectomy: What to Expect on Surgery Day
Keeping Your Indoor Cat Happy and Healthy
Pre-Anaesthetic Testing Information
Obesity: Understanding the Risks
Wellness Testing
Flip the Lip (a healthy mouth means a healthy pet)
The Obesity Epidemic
Gastrointestinal Foreign Bodies
AGE COMPARISON CHART
How old is my pet, really?
Pet’s Age
Cats
Estimated Equivalent Age in Human Years
Dogs
Small/Medium
Large Breed
Giant Breed
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
7
13
20
26
33
40
44
48
52
56
60
64
68
72
76
80
84
88
92
96
100
104
108
112
116
7
14
21
27
34
42
47
51
56
60
65
69
74
78
83
87
92
96
101
105
109
113
8
16
24
31
38
45
50
55
61
66
72
77
82
88
93
99
104
109
PEDIATRIC
ADULT
SENIOR
GERIATRIC
9
18
26
34
41
49
56
64
71
78
86
93
101
108
115
CHOOSING A BOARDING
FACILITY FOR YOUR CAT
The best way to decide on a boarding facility is to research the options available in
your area. You can start by phoning them and asking questions. When you phone,
ask if you can stop by for a visit. If the owners think it would be a bad idea, then
you might not want to leave your pet there. A reputable boarding facility shouldn’t
mind showing you around so that you feel comfortable with where your cat will be
staying while you are away. If you are still concerned, consider dropping by
unannounced during the hours the facility is open.
Some things you might want to look for:
Do the cats look comfortable in the enclosures?
Is the place clean, tidy and organized?
Does the place smell bad?
Are all the pets identified?
Do all the pets have a file that lists such things as what they are fed, who their
regular vet is, and if they are on any medications?
Some questions you might want to ask:
Can I bring my cat’s own food?
Can I bring my cat’s own type of litter or litter box?
How often will my cat be fed?
Will you give my cat medication if required?
Is my cat let out for exercise?
Is the exercise area indoors or out? Is it secure?
Is my pet going to be in contact with other pets?
Can I decline contact with other pets?
If they have contact, how do you handle fights, and keep track of who is eating and
drinking?
What happens if my pet gets sick while I’m away?
Does my cat require up to date vaccines? Which vaccines are required?
The one thing that you want to be sure of is that your cat will be safe and
comfortable when boarded. You want to be confident that your pet is in good
hands while you are away
FACT SHEET:
FELINE DECLAW
Cats are declawed by surgically removing the last bone of each front toe (declawing
the rear paws is almost never done). Declawing is major surgery, requiring general
anesthesia and two nights in the hospital. Pain management is critical.
Centennial Animal Hospital does not recommend the routine declawing of cats, even
those destined to live indoors. Many non-surgical alternatives to declawing exist,
including: regular nail trimming, scratching post training and Soft Paws nail caps.
Should you chose to have your cat declawed, the best time to perform the surgery
is at the time of ovariohysterectomy or neuter.
Benefits of Declawing
Declawed cats will no longer be able to damage furniture (although some can still
scratch leather furniture with hind claws when jumping up or down from furniture).
Declawed cats will be less likely to scratch their owners (some cats scratch with
their rear paws).
Are there any Downsides to the Surgery?
Declawing is a painful procedure, and some cats may take longer than others to
recover. Post-operative infection may occur.
Declawed cats may be at a disadvantage if they escape outdoors.
Any surgical procedure carries some risk. At Centennial Animal Hospital, we believe
that, through careful preparation, use of the safest available anaesthetics, and
constant patient monitoring, the risk is very, very small.
FACT SHEET:
FELINE NEUTER
Sterilization of male cats is performed by removing both testicles through an
incision in the scrotum. Neutering, also known as castration, is a moderately
invasive surgery requiring general anaesthesia. At Centennial Animal Hospital, we
consider this surgery to be part of basic health care for your male cat, and we
make every effort to ensure that the procedure goes smoothly.
Centennial Animal Hospital recommends that ALL male cats be neutered at about
8-10 months of age.
Benefits of Sterilization.
Neutered cats are less likely to roam than intact cats. Cats that roam don't always
make it home safely.
Neutered cats are far less likely to fight with other cats than intact cats. Bite
wounds often lead to abscess formation, and biting can be an important source of
disease transmission between cats.
Neutered cats are far less likely to use urine to mark their territory... indoors and
out. All cat urine is objectionable, but tom cat urine is especially smelly!
Sterilization obviously eliminates the possibility of your cat fathering unwanted
litters of kittens. Millions of unwanted pets are euthanized every year in North
America. Responsible pet owners take this fact very seriously and do everything in
their power to help eliminate pet overpopulation.
Are There any Downsides to the Surgery?
Removal of the testicles often leads to a drop in metabolic rate. This means that
your cat will need less food to maintain a healthy body condition. If you do not
reduce food intake after the surgery, weight gain may result.
Any surgical procedure carries some risk. At Centennial Animal Hospital, we believe
that, through careful preparation, use of the safest available anaesthetics, and
constant patient monitoring, the risk is very, very small.
FACTSHEET:
FELINE OVARIOHYSTERECTOMY
Sterilization of female cats is performed by removing both the ovaries and the uterus through an
incision in the abdominal wall. Ovariohysterectomy, also known as "spaying", is major surgery,
requiring general anaesthesia and an overnight hospital stay. At Centennial Animal Hospital, we
consider this surgery to be part of basic health care for your female cat, and we make every effort
to ensure that the procedure goes smoothly.
Centennial Animal Hospital recommends that ALL female cats be spayed at about 6 months of age.
Benefits of Sterilization.
Female cats who are sterilized early in life, before the first heat cycle, have a ~0% chance of
developing mammary cancer. Intact queens have a lifetime mammary cancer risk of up to 50%. Most
feline mammary tumours are malignant, and can be fatal.
Removal of the ovaries and uterus eliminates the possibility of cancer in these organs.
Removal of the ovaries and uterus eliminates the possibility of pyometra, a potentially lifethreatening infection of the uterus (pyometra means "pus in the uterus").
Intact queens normally come into heat about every month in the spring, summer and fall, from
puberty well into old age. This is annoying and inconvenient.
Sterilization obviously eliminates the possibility of unwanted litters of kittens, and of complications
related to pregnancy and delivery. Millions of unwanted pets are euthanized every year in North
America. Responsible pet owners take this fact very seriously and do everything in their power to
help eliminate pet overpopulation.
Are There any Downsides to the Surgery?
Removal of the ovaries often leads to a drop in metabolic rate. This means that your cat will need
less food to maintain a healthy body condition. If you do not reduce food intake after the surgery,
weight gain may result.
Any surgical procedure carries some risk. At Centennial Animal Hospital, we believe that, through
careful preparation, use of the safest available anaesthetics, and constant patient monitoring, the
risk is very, very small.
FELINE NEUTER
WHAT TO EXPECT ON SURGERY DAY
1. Your cat is admitted the morning of his surgery. He will be weighed, and you will
have a chance to ask any last-minute questions as we go over the Surgical Consent
forms. Your cat may have access to water, but don't forget- no breakfast! Please
allow 20 minutes for this appointment.
2. Once your cat is admitted to the hospital, the veterinarian who will be
performing the surgery will do a pre-surgical examination. This examination
includes (but is not necessarily limited to) listening to the heart and lungs, taking
the temperature, looking for external parasites, checking mucous membrane colour
and assessing hydration status. Pre-anaesthetic bloodwork (strongly recommended)
is performed at this time, unless it was already completed (preferred).
3. The first stage of anaesthesia is the administration of a pre-anaesthetic
sedative. This injection calms your pet, as well as helping to control respiratory
secretions.
4. After your cat is relaxed and calm, a calculated dose of intravenous anesthetic
is injected.
5. Once your cat is sleepy enough (usually a matter of seconds), a mask or
endotracheal tube is used for the delivery of oxygen and the gas anaesthetic
isoflurane (one of the safest of the inhalant anaesthetics), which maintains
anaesthesia for as long as required.
6. The surgical site is prepared for surgery by the veterinary technician assigned
to care for your cat.
7. Separate sterile surgical instruments are used for each patient.
8. A veterinary technician remains in the surgical area throughout the procedure.
We monitor heart rate, respiratory rate, mucous membrane colour, and depth of
anaesthesia. Required pain medication is administered.
9. An incision is made in the skin of the scrotum. The blood vessels supplying each
testicle are ligated (tied off) and the testicles removed. Sutures are not used.
10. Once the procedure is complete, the anaesthetic gas is turned off, and your cat
starts to wake up. The technician stays with your cat until he is awake enough to
have his mask or endotracheal tube and IV catheter (if used) removed, and to be
transferred to the recovery kennels, where he is wrapped in a warmed blanket.
The recovery kennels are constantly monitored.
11. Once your cat is fully awake, he is taken to his day kennel, where he is fed,
watered and loved until it is time to go home later that day. Additional pain
medication is given as needed.
12. Once your pet is awake, the veterinary technician will call you with an update on
your pet's condition and will schedule a discharge appointment. At the
appointment, the technician will go over the home care instructions with you.
Please allow 20 minutes for this appointment.
FELINE OVARIOHYSTERECTOMY
WHAT TO EXPECT ON SURGERY DAY
1. Your cat is admitted the morning of her surgery. She will be weighed, and you
will have a chance to ask any last-minute questions as we go over the Surgical
Consent forms. Your cat may have access to water, but don't forget- no
breakfast! Please allow 20 minutes for this appointment.
2. Once your cat is admitted to the hospital, the veterinarian who will be
performing the surgery will do a pre-surgical examination. This examination
includes (but is not necessarily limited to) listening to the heart and lungs, taking
the temperature, looking for external parasites, checking mucous membrane (gum)
colour and assessing hydration status.
Pre-anaesthetic bloodwork (strongly recommended) is performed at this time,
unless it was already completed (preferred).
3. The first stage of anaesthesia is the administration of a pre-anaesthetic
sedative. This injection calms your pet, as well as helping to control respiratory
secretions.
4. After your cat is relaxed and calm, an intravenous catheter (IV) is placed,
usually in a front leg vein (you will see a small shaved area on the leg). This
catheter allows for the administration of medication, as well as IV fluids, which are
an important part of maintaining blood pressure and circulation under anaesthesia.
A calculated dose of an intravenous anaesthetic is administered through the
catheter.
5. Once your cat is sleepy enough (usually a matter of seconds), an endotracheal
tube is placed in the trachea. This tube allows for the delivery of oxygen and the
gas anaesthetic isoflurane (one of the safest of the inhalant anaesthetics), which
maintains anaesthesia for as long as required. The endotracheal tube also protects
the airways from foreign material, as anaesthesia temporarily inhibits the
swallowing reflex.
6. The surgical site is shaved, vacuumed and scrubbed in preparation for sterile
surgery by the veterinary technician assigned to care for your cat.
7. Meanwhile, the surgeon is also getting ready for surgery. After doing a surgical
hand scrub, the surgeon also dons a sterile gown and surgical gloves. All of the
surgery team wear caps and masks during surgery.
8. A separate sterile surgical pack and surgical drapes are used for each patient.
9. After being moved into the surgical suite, your cat is placed on a warming
blanket, and connected to the surgical monitors. A veterinary technician also
remains in the surgical suite throughout the surgery. We monitor heart rate,
respiratory rate, blood pressure, blood oxygenation, mucous membrane colour, and
depth of anaesthesia. Additional pain medication is administered during the
procedure.
10. An incision is made in the abdominal wall, between the umbilicus (belly button)
and the pelvis. The incision may be anywhere from one to three inches long,
depending on the size of the cat. The blood vessels supplying the ovaries and the
uterus are ligated (tied off), and the whole reproductive tract is removed.
11. The incision is sutured closed in several layers. These layers of suture are
generally absorbable (they will dissolve over time). The skin layer is sutured or
surgical staples may be used. Skin sutures and staples need to be removed, usually
7-10 days after surgery. Sometimes there are no skin sutures to remove. We will
advise you of this at the discharge appointment.
12. Once the procedure is complete, the anaesthetic gas is turned off, and your cat
starts to wake up. The technician stays with your cat until she is awake enough to
have her endotracheal tube and IV catheter removed and to be transferred to the
recovery kennels, where she is wrapped in a warmed blanket. The recovery kennels
are constantly monitored.
13. Once your pet is fully awake, she is taken to her overnight kennel, where she is
fed, watered and loved until it is time to go home the next day. Additional pain
medication is given as needed.
14. Once your pet is awake, the veterinary technician will call you with an update on
your pet's condition and will schedule a discharge appointment. At the
appointment, the technician will go over the home care instructions with you and
set up a suture removal appointment in 7-10 days. Please allow 20 minutes for
both the discharge appointment and the suture removal appointment.
KEEPING YOUR INDOOR CAT HAPPY & HEALTHY
Cats are becoming the most popular pets in North America, with over 70 million pet cats in the
United States alone. The lifestyle of the average pet cat has changed over the years, so that over
fifty percent of pet cats are now kept exclusively indoors. Statistics show that the average life
span of indoor cats is 14 years or more, while the average for cats that are allowed to roam free
outdoors is reduced to 4 years.
THE BENEFITS OF AN INDOOR LIFE:
• Less likely exposure to toxins, parasites, and infectious disease
• Less potential for injury (ie hit by car, cat bites) or accidental death
• Less impact on the songbird population
THE DRAWBACKS TO LIVING INDOORS:
• Less exercise and potential for weight gain
• Boredom, leading to overeating and inappropriate behaviours
10 WAYS TO KEEP YOUR INDOOR CAT HAPPY:
1. Playtime. Cats are natural hunters. Regular interaction with you and interactive toys
provides enrichment. Pet owners can invent inexpensive playthings from paper bags and
cardboard boxes or play interactive games using a flashlight, laser pointer, ping pong ball or
ball made from aluminum foil.
2. Resting. Cats spend much time “sleeping”, or rather resting, always alert. A comfortable,
undisturbed safe spot is desired by all cats.
3. Feeding. Many cats prefer to eat in a quiet location. Food and water should be away from
litter and noise. We recommend feeding measured meals of both canned and dry food in
amounts designed to avoid obesity. Canned food naturally encourages water intake.
4. Drinking. Cats generally don’t drink enough water for ideal health. Most cats prefer a wide
shallow water bowl to a typically small deep cat dish, and some prefer running water. Cat
fountains are a great idea.
5. Scratching. Even declawed cats continue to “scratch” to mark their scent on their
surroundings. A post or pad should be in an easily accessible area.
6. Perching. Cats enjoy climbing structures and perches near a window to watch the birds
outside.
7. Litter Box Care. You should have at least one box per cat. Types of litter and boxes vary
as do cats’ preferences. The box should be scooped daily, and generally unscented clumping
litter in an open box located in a quiet location is preferred.
8. Grooming. Both short-haired and longer-haired breeds will benefit from regular brushing,
and most enjoy the interaction. All cats need nails trimmed monthly or more often.
9. Routine. Cats don’t generally like change. If you must change food or litter, do so
gradually, still offering the original version alongside the new until you know your cat will
accept the change.
10. Healthcare. Cats hide illness very well. This is a protective mechanism in the wild. At
minimum, a yearly visit to the veterinarian can help detect and prevent obesity, dental
disease, and other conditions threatening health and happiness.
Fortunately, we, as cat lovers, can provide stimulation for our indoor cats and enrich their lives. The
idea is to create an environment in which the cat is happy and gainfully occupied. For more ideas,
visit The Indoor Pet Initiative at http://indoorpet.osu.edu/index.cfm.
This client information sheet is based on material from Lifelearn Inc. News© Copyright 2011. Used/modified with permission under license.
PRE-ANAESTHETIC
TESTING INFORMATION
Your pet is scheduled for a procedure that requires anaesthesia. We would like to take
this opportunity to recommend pre-anaesthetic blood testing and explain why it is
important to the health of your pet.
Like you, our greatest concern is the well-being of your pet. Before placing your pet
under anaesthesia, a veterinarian will perform a physical examination to identify any
existing medical conditions that could complicate the procedure and compromise the
health of your pet.
Because there is always the possibility a physical exam will not identify all of your pet’s
health problems, we strongly recommend that a pre-anaesthetic profile (a combination of
blood tests) be performed prior to anaesthesia. The tests we recommend are similar to
and equally as important as those your own physician would run if you were to undergo
anaesthesia.
It is important to understand that a pre-anaesthetic profile does not guarantee the
absence of anaesthetic complications. It may, however, greatly reduce the risk of
complications as well as identify medical conditions that could require treatment in the
future.
The combination of blood tests we recommend for the apparently healthy younger pet is
listed below.
1. Creatinine, Alanine Aminotransferase (ALT), Glucose - (giving
us valuable information about the kidneys, liver, and blood sugar)
2. PCV, total protein (looking for anemia, assessing hydration + protein level)
Another benefit of these blood tests performed when your pet is healthy, is to provide
baseline values for comparison with tests performed later in life.
OBESITY:
UNDERSTANDING THE RISKS
Obesity is an epidemic in North American people and their pets. Over 50% of cats and 25% of dogs are
overweight. Obesity is not just a cosmetic problem. It is a disease condition and puts the pet at risk for
other problems, such as:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
high blood fat levels (hyperlipidemia) and pancreatitis (inflamed pancreas) in dogs and fatty liver
syndrome in cats
diabetes
arthritis
respiratory difficulty, decreased energy level
high blood pressure (hypertension)
decreased immune function
heart disease
bladder cancer (dogs)
skin disorders due to inability to groom themselves (cats), or excessive skin folds (dogs)
Obesity may also increase a pet’s risk when placed under anaesthesia.
A study completed by a major pet food company, comparing littermates with either lean or obese body
condition, showed a direct link between lean body condition in dogs and a longer lifespan, delayed onset
of chronic disease (including arthritis), and fewer observed signs of aging, as compared to dogs with an
overweight body condition.
Why do pets become obese?
1. eating more calories than can be burned off in a day
2. genetic or breed predisposition
3. some medical conditions (ie hypothyroidism in dogs) that slow metabolism
Prevention of Obesity:
1.
Have your pet weighed, Body Condition-Scored, and examined by your veterinarian at least once per
year.
2. Feed your pet a measured amount of a high quality Adult or Light food, twice daily unless otherwise
directed.
3. Limit treats to low calorie options, and limit overall quantity.
4. Adopt a regular exercise routine for your pet.
5. Weigh and Body Condition Score your pet monthly (see separate instruction sheet on Body Condition
Scoring), and keep a record.
6. Alert your veterinarian to any changes in your pets’ lifestyle (ie less exercise means amount fed or
type of diet may have to change), weight, or Body Condition Score.
LIFESTAGE WELLNESS TESTING
Different breeds and individuals age at variable rates, but in general, your pet’s
age can also indicate their lifestage.
“Hey. I’m 65 in human years. Show me respect and let me sit in that chair.” Puppy or Kitten = under 1 year
Adult = 1-6 years
Mature = 7+ years
Larger breeds tend to age more quickly than smaller breeds, and certain
breeds or individuals are more predisposed to particular diseases.
Your Centennial Animal Hospital veterinarian will consider
these factors when making wellness testing
recommendations for your pet.
When planning your pet’s wellness care, we will generally
follow the guidelines below for wellness testing:
Recommended Test
Lifestage
WHEN?
Fecal testing
Heartworm testing
(may be combined with tests
for other diseases)
Baseline
blood and urine tests
Early Disease Detection
blood and urine tests
All
All
Adult
Yearly
Yearly or every other year (in
dogs,
dependent on lifestyle risk)
At 4-5 years old
Mature
At 7+ years old
After age 7, we recommend continued Early Disease Detection testing every other year or more often for
monitoring depending on health status.
WELLNESS TESTING
What is Wellness testing?
Wellness testing is the term given to a group of tests performed on an apparently healthy pet.
Why do Wellness testing?
§
To establish baseline laboratory values for the individual pet
while healthy. These values can then be used to compare to
future test results.
§
For early disease detection. Pets cannot tell
you how they are feeling, and as a result,
disease may be present before you are aware
of it. If a disease or condition can be detected
before a pet shows signs of illness, we can often
take steps to manage or correct the problem
before irreparable damage is done.
Wellness testing is particularly important in the
middle aged and senior pet, since there is a greater
chance that underlying disease may be present. How often is Wellness testing
done?
Testing may be recommended once yearly or more, depending on your pet’s age and specific
health concerns.
“What’s the matter, Lassie? Is your cholesterol in trouble?” What is involved in Wellness testing?
There are three main categories of wellness testing: blood tests, urine tests, and fecal
tests. Within each category, the veterinarian will determine how extensive the testing should be. Other tests such as
blood pressure, eye pressure, chest x-rays or abdominal ultrasound may be recommended as well, depending on the
patient’s individual risk factors.
Blood Tests
The Complete Blood Count (CBC) provides details about the number, size, and shape of the red and white
blood cells and identifies the presence of any abnormal cells. Anemia, inflammation, infection, certain cancers,
and bleeding disorders can be detected.
The Biochemical Profile provides information about how well the various organs of the body are working
(ie.liver, kidney, and pancreas), evaluates electrolytes, proteins, and can be the first step in detecting certain
metabolic diseases. Measurement of thyroid hormone screens for an over or under-active thyroid gland.
▪Urine Tests
A urinalysis involves an analysis of the chemical components in urine, as well as a microscopic examination of
the cells and solid material present in urine. Urinalysis provides information about how well the kidneys are
working, identifies the presence of inflammation or infection, and may detect the presence of underlying
metabolic diseases such as diabetes. Urinalysis is a particularly important component of senior wellness testing
because of the very high rate of kidney disease in older pets.
▪Fecal Tests
Most of the time, a fecal analysis is done with the use of a microscope to determine if any intestinal parasite
(worm) eggs are being shed in the feces. The general appearance or consistency of the feces can also be an
indication of disease, and may lead to recommendation for further testing.
Summary
Wellness testing is a simple and effective way of monitoring your pet's health beyond regular physical examinations by
your veterinarian. Early detection and correction of medical problems help to ensure that your pet will be healthy and
active for as long as possible.
“Flip the Lip!”
A healthy mouth means a healthy pet.
Did you know?
•
•
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Dental disease is the most common disease in both dogs and cats – by the time they are three years old, more
than 70% of pets have some form of dental disease.
Left untreated, dental disease can make eating, play, and other day-to-day activities painful for your pet.
Dental disease doesn’t stay in the mouth – inflamed gums allow dangerous bacteria access to the bloodstream,
where they shower important organs, leading to respiratory problems, heart disease, kidney and liver diseases, diabetes,
and more.
How will you know if your pet has dental disease? Bad Breath is one clue! Bacteria forms a film of plaque on the teeth,
and breath gets gross. If that plaque is not removed, it starts to thicken and harden into tartar. Tartar is a yellow-brown
buildup that you can see on the teeth – but by the time you see it, tartar is also below the gum line, where it causes
inflammation called gingivitis. If left untreated, gingivitis progresses to periodontal disease: swollen bleeding gums,
chronic pain, loose and broken teeth, and infection.
The bad news is; most pets never show any symptoms of dental disease. Even those with painful mouths will continue to
eat and even play with toys. Pets instinctively hide pain as, in the wild, pain is seen as a weakness.
The good news is; there is plenty you can do to keep your pet’s mouth clean and healthy.
Today, we may have recommended a full dental cleaning. This is much like we would get at our dentist, but your pet has to
be under anaesthesia, because even the best-trained pet won’t tolerate the scraping and polishing and probing under the gums
that is required to do a thorough job.
To prevent dental disease, we recommend some or all of the following:
•
A prescription diet that cleans the teeth and has the
Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) seal of approval.
•
SAFE dental chews that are designed to help remove plaque.
•
Brushing your pet’s teeth regularly with a pet-safe toothpaste
(human toothpaste is toxic to pets)
•
A specially-designed and safe water additive (www.healthymouth.com).
Adapted from Lifelearn, February 2015
The Obesity Epidemic
If you feel that our team is obsessed with measuring your pet’s weight and discussing nutrition, you are absolutely correct!
There is an obesity epidemic in North American pets and it is getting worse. In 2013, more than 50% of cats and dogs were
overweight or obese.
Why does it matter? Even a few excess pounds put your pet at increased risk for:
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Arthritis Diabetes High Blood Pressure Heart and Lung Disease •
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Cranial Cruciate (knee) Ligament Injury Kidney Disease Many Forms of Cancer Decreased life expectancy (up to 2.5 years) Here are three common reasons for excess weight gain:
1) Perception. Sometimes it can be hard to get too worried about “just a few extra pounds” on your pet, but remember how much smaller than us most pets are. The link below helps you figure out how much your pet weighs compared to an adult human: http://www.petobesityprevention.org/pet-­‐weight-­‐translator/ . For example, A Labrador Retriever who should weigh
60lbs, weighing 75lbs, is like a 5’8” person
who should weigh 165lbs, weighing in at
205lbs.
A typical cat should weigh 10 lbs.
At 14lbs, that’s like a 5’8” person being 48
lbs overweight.
2) Portions. It is best to feed your pet at set mealtimes, two to three times per day, measuring out the food each time. We can help you determine how much to feed. If you follow the feeding guide on the food package, keep in mind that you should be feeding to your pet’s ideal body weight. Many feeding guides on the packages overestimate what a typical pet needs. 3) Treats. We tend to overdo it. To use a Labrador Retriever as an example, the maximum number of calories from treats per day should be 100 or less. This is equivalent to: 2 medium sized typical dog bone treats, OR 1 tablespoon peanut butter OR 1.5 oz cheddar cheese OR 6 low calorie veterinary prescribed dog bone treats. How many treats does your pet get per day? What can you do to help?
1. If your pet has weight to lose, accept that and take action! If not, work to prevent obesity. 2. Feed your pet the recommended daily amount in two to three meals. 3. Reduce treats and the number of times you reward with food; use toys, attention and love, instead. 4. Bring your pet in for free monthly weigh-­‐ins to monitor progress. Adapted from www.petobesityprevention.org
Gastrointestinal Foreign Bodies
Can you believe they eat these things?
Animals like to play with things and play often involves chewing. Chewing can lead to accidental swallowing, and
potential disaster can ensue. Pets of any age can get into trouble, but young dogs and cats are most at risk.
Common objects, or “foreign bodies”, that are sometimes swallowed include:
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Toys, especially the squeakers from dog toys Socks, underwear, nylons Rocks, sticks, pine needles Corn cobs Balls Jewelry Leashes and collars Plastic bags Fish hooks Tinsel, ribbon Elastic bands, hair ties Ear plugs Bathroom garbage (dental floss, feminine hygiene products) Kitchen garbage (bones, foil, packaging) Sewing needles (especially tempting to cats when attached to thread), yarn Wooden skewers with meat attached (we cannot see the skewers on an x-­‐ray!) The list goes on. If the object does not pass and causes obstruction or partial obstruction, surgery will be needed to
remove it. Swift diagnosis allows for prompt removal of the foreign body before the bowel is badly damaged. In
more advanced situations, sections of damaged bowel must be removed and in the worst possible scenario, the
intestine breaks open and spills bacteria and digested food throughout the abdomen. This latter possibility is
associated with very high death rate and should be avoided.
Sometimes the pet ingests a stringy object such as tinsel, yarn, or pieces of fabric. These objects can cause the
intestine to bunch up on itself like a drawstring. They may also saw right through the intestine, leading to a much
more serious situation. This can also happen when a needle is caught under a cat’s tongue, leaving the attached
thread to trail down to the stomach and intestines.
Prevention is, by far, the best medicine: keep these and other hazards out of your pet’s reach, and inspect toys
regularly to ensure safety. If you have reason to suspect your pet has eaten something they shouldn’t have, contact
us right away for advice.