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READING 3
Candice Goucher, Charles LeGuin, and Linda Walton, “My Dinner with
Attila the Hun” in In the Balance: Themes in Global History (Boston: McGrawHill, 1998), 341.
Abstract: This essay explores the complex cultural meanings associated with
food etiquette, and the ways those meaning vary between cultures. It uses an
account by the Roman Priscus detailing his dinner with Attila the Hun to
demonstrate this point, for Priscus paid close attention to the unique aspects
of his host’s dining etiquette. Such accounts give historians a sense of the
variety of ways humans have historically shared food.
My Dinner with Attila the Hun
Sharing food inside the home is one of the most necessary and intimate of
human social acts. Human children are born incapable of sustaining
themselves independently, so eating food within a family context has served
to ensure both the survival of individual offspring and the creation and
maintenance of the group system in which children are socialized. In many
societies, the choice and preparation of food and the organization of its
consumption occur according to strict cultural rules, based on gender and
place or rank within the family or household order.
The customs of dinner etiquette (table manners) are more than the fussy rules
of modern matrons. They reveal much about the order of social groups. Since
ancient times, societies have followed strict and meaningful cultural rules
when it came time for dinner, as the following excerpt from an account of
Priscus (from about 450 C.E.), describing his experience of a meal with the
king of the Huns, suggests:
Attila invited both parties of us to dine with him about three o’clock that
afternoon. We waited for the time of the invitation, and then all of us, envoys from
the Western Romans as well, presented ourselves in the doorway facing Attila. In
accordance with the national custom the cupbearers gave us a cup for us to make
our libations before we took our seats. When that had been done and we had
sipped the wine, we went to the chairs where we would sit to have dinner. All the
seats were ranged down either side of the room, up against the walls. In the middle
Attila was sitting on a couch with a second couch behind him. Behind that a few
steps led up to his bed. . . . I think that the more distinguished guests were on
Attila’s right, and the second rank on his left. . . .
When all were sitting properly in order, a cupbearer came to offer Attila an ivywood bowl of wine, which he took and drank a toast to the man first in order of
precedence. . . .
Used by permission for Bridging World History,
The Annenberg Foundation copyright © 2004
1
After everyone had been toasted, the cupbearers left, and a table was put in front
of Attila and other tables for groups of three or four men each. This enabled each
guest to help himself to the things put on the table without leaving his proper seat.
Attila’s servant entered first with plates full of meat, and those waiting on all the
others put bread and cooked food on the tables. A lavish meal, served on silver
trenchers, was prepared for us and the other barbarians, but Attila just had some
meat on a wooden platter, for this was one aspect of his self-discipline. . . . When
the food in the first plates was finished we all got up, and no one, once on his feet,
returned to his seat until he had, in the same order as before, drunk the full cup of
wine he was handed, with a toast for Attila’s health. After this honour had been
paid him, we sat down again and second plates were put on each table with other
food on them. This also finished, everyone rose once more, drank another toast and
resumed his seat.
Whether or not we find king and subjects, husband and wife, or father and
children eating together varies greatly across times and cultures. Whatever
the nature and pattern of social interaction occurring during mealtimes, food
sharing was and is a basic—perhaps the earliest—of human cultural
experiences and profoundly shapes social encounters of all kinds throughout
a lifetime.
Used by permission for Bridging World History,
The Annenberg Foundation copyright © 2004
2